Learn / Fixing to walls
Draft – being checked by a qualified joiner
Fixing to walls: know your wall, then pick your fixing
Tap your wall type. See what's inside, which fixings suit it, and which drill setting to use. Always check the maker's sheet for loads.
Medium6 wall typesWall pickerCabinet hanging
The big rule
Never hang wall cabinets on plasterboard alone.
Fix into studs, noggings, or solid masonry with an anchor rated for the load. Wall cabinets get heavy when they're full. If one falls, it can hurt someone badly.
How to hang wall cabinets// 01 Check before you drill
Check before you drill.
- Scan for cables and pipes first.Use a cable and stud detector before every hole. Detectors miss things, so look too: power points, switches, taps and the meter box show where services run. Cables often run straight up or down from power points and switches, so don't drill there. An RMIT safety alert says: "ALWAYS ASSUME THAT EQUIPMENT, CABLES AND STRUCTURES ARE LIVE". RMIT safety alert (PDF) (opens in a new tab)
- Hit a pipe or cable? Stop.Don't touch it. Tell your supervisor. Gas, water and power work is for a licensed gasfitter, plumber or electrician.Licensed tradie
- Old fibro walls can have asbestos.The Australian Government says: "If your home was built or renovated before 1990 it might contain asbestos". You need to know "even if all you want to do is drill into a wall to install a shelf." Don't drill until you know. Asbestos Safety and Eradication Agency (opens in a new tab)Call a licensed asbestos assessor
- Concrete slabs can hide steel cables.Slabs and ceilings in apartments and commercial buildings may be post-tensioned: they have tight steel cables inside. Don't drill slabs or ceilings until the builder or engineer says where it's safe.Ask the engineer
- Dust and eyes.Drilling concrete, brick and Hebel makes silica dust. Use on-tool dust extraction or water. Clean up with an M- or H-class vacuum, not a broom or compressed air. Safe Work Australia: silica (opens in a new tab) Wear eye protection. Ramset's WallMate sheet says "WEAR EYE PROTECTION" even for plasterboard anchors. Ramset WallMate (PDF) (opens in a new tab)
- Heavy or overhead loads.Wall cabinets, rangehoods, TVs and grab rails go into studs, noggings, or solid masonry with a rated anchor. Never plasterboard alone. Heavy, or could hurt someone if it falls? Ask your supervisor, or an engineer on commercial jobs.Hanging wall cabinets
General safety notes, not a full list. Follow your site rules, the product's SDS and your supervisor.
// 02 Tap your wall
Tap your wall. See what's inside.
Pick the wall you're fixing to. See a top view, cut through the wall, plus how to spot it, which fixings suit and the drill setting.
Wall 1 of 6
Timber stud wall
A timber frame (studs and noggings) with plasterboard on it. Very common inside Aussie houses. In a brick veneer house, the inside of the outside walls is a stud wall too.
Hammer OFFWood bit for a pilot hole, or a self-drilling screw.
How to spot it
- Hollow sound between studs, solid sound over a stud.
- A stud finder shows the studs. Find each one. Don't guess the spacing: doors, windows and corners change it.
- Test hole: white plaster dust, then pale wood shavings.
Fixings that suit
- Screws through the plasterboard into the stud or noggin. Best for anything heavy. CSR says: "Heavier loads such as shelves and appliances must be fixed through the linings to the studs." CSR Gyprock Red Book 2 (PDF) (opens in a new tab)
- Light items between studs: see Plasterboard only.
- Use the screws the hardware maker names. Hettich: "chipboard screws must not be used instead of wall plug screws." Hettich fixing material (PDF) (opens in a new tab)
Watch out
- Missing the stud by a little. Then the screw only grips plasterboard. Find both edges of the stud and fix in the middle.
- Not checking for cables. Cables run through studs and along noggings.
- Driving the screw too far and crushing the plasterboard face.
Maker load tables and data
We don't give load figures. Fixings are rated by their maker, for one product, size and wall. Always use the maker's current sheet.
Wall 2 of 6
Steel stud wall
A light steel frame (studs and track) with plasterboard on it. Very common in offices and shops. Sometimes used in houses.
Hammer OFFSelf-drilling metal screw, or a metal (HSS) bit for pilot holes. Low speed.
How to spot it
- Hollow sound. A stud finder shows the studs.
- A strong magnet may stick along the stud line, not just at the screws.
- Test hole: white dust, then the bit stops hard on thin metal.
- On commercial jobs, ask for the wall drawings.
Fixings that suit
- Self-drilling metal screws into the stud, for lighter items.
- Heavy items: timber or plywood noggings, put in before the plasterboard goes on. Rondo says noggings "are often installed in a steel stud wall to provide support for a variety of additional fittings, such as heavy cupboards, hand rails, flat screen television units". Rondo Noggings Manual (PDF) (opens in a new tab)
- Not sure which nogging? Rondo says to ask "a Rondo representative if unsure of the appropriate Nogging to use due to the weight of the fixtures". Rondo (PDF) (opens in a new tab)
Watch out
- Thinking a screw in a thin steel stud will hold a heavy cabinet. Steel studs come in many thicknesses. Heavy loads need noggings, or an engineer's detail.
- Using CCA-treated pine as a nogging. Rondo: "CCA treated timber should never be used with Rondo steel stud systems." Rondo (PDF) (opens in a new tab)
- Hammer mode on. The screw wanders and spins out.
Maker load tables and data
- Rondo Noggings Systems Manual (opens in a new tab)
- Rondo Steel Stud Installation Guide (opens in a new tab)
- CSR Gyprock Red Book 2: steel stud heavy fixture detail (opens in a new tab)
We don't give load figures. Fixings are rated by their maker, for one product, size and wall. Always use the maker's current sheet.
Wall 3 of 6
Plasterboard, no stud behind
The gap between studs. Just thin plasterboard, with air behind it.
Hammer OFFMany board anchors screw in by hand, or with a drill on low speed. Others need the exact hole size on the maker's sheet. Too big and they spin.
Light items only. Never wall cabinets, rangehoods, TVs, grab rails or anything overhead. Find a stud, or put in a nogging.
How to spot it
- Hollow sound, and nothing shows on the stud finder.
- Test hole: white dust, then the bit drops into empty space.
Fixings that suit
- Self-drilling plasterboard anchors, like Ramset WallMate. Ramset says: "Wallmates are not for overhead use, installing tv's or anchoring furniture (eg a chest of drawers) to walls". Ramset WallMate (PDF) (opens in a new tab)
- Metal expanding cavity anchors ("hollow wall anchors"), like Rawlplug SM Interset or Hilti HHD-S. Rawlplug SM (PDF) (opens in a new tab) Hilti HHD-S (opens in a new tab)
- Nylon plugs made for board, like fischer DuoTec or DuoPower. fischer DuoTec (PDF) (opens in a new tab)
- CSR: "Light weight fixtures such as picture frames may be attached to plasterboard walls with proprietary fixings. Check with the fixing manufacturer for allowable loadings." CSR Gyprock Red Book 2 (PDF) (opens in a new tab)
Watch out
- "More anchors means more load." No. Ramset: "Adding anchors does not increase maximum load recommendation". Ramset WallMate (PDF) (opens in a new tab)
- Reading the wrong row of the load sheet. Ratings change with the board thickness, and with one or two layers of board.
- Over-tightening and crushing the board.
- Not checking what's in the cavity. Pipes and cables run there.
Maker load tables and data
- Ramset WallMate data sheet (opens in a new tab)
- Rawlplug SM Interset product card (loads by board thickness) (opens in a new tab)
- Hilti HHD-S cavity anchor (opens in a new tab)
- fischer DuoTec load table (opens in a new tab)
- fischer DuoPower load table (opens in a new tab)
The fischer sheets are international sheets, for European board sizes.
We don't give load figures. Fixings are rated by their maker, for one product, size and wall. Always use the maker's current sheet.
Wall 4 of 6
Brick wall
Clay bricks laid in mortar. Bricks can be solid, or have holes through them. In a brick veneer house the brick is only the outside skin: inside, you're fixing to a stud wall.
Hammer ONMasonry bit. Hollow brick or a mortar joint? Start with hammer off so you don't break it up.
How to spot it
- Dull, solid sound. Nothing regular on the stud finder.
- Test hole: red or orange dust from clay brick. Sandy-grey dust means you're in the mortar joint. Brick colours vary, so the dust does too.
- Plasterboard over brick? The bit hits hard just after the board. CSR says, for board on masonry: "All wall fixtures must be fastened to the masonry wall". CSR Gyprock Red Book 2 (PDF) (opens in a new tab)
Fixings that suit
- Nylon plugs and screws, for light items. Ramset calls RamPlug a "light duty" anchor. Ramset RamPlug (PDF) (opens in a new tab)
- Masonry screws (screw-in anchors), like Ramset AnkaScrew. Ramset has a sheet just for brick and block. AnkaScrew brick and block (PDF) (opens in a new tab)
- Sleeve anchors ("Dynabolts"). Stronger, but they expand and can split brick. Ramset limits the anchor size in brick. See its resource book. Ramset resource book (PDF, large) (opens in a new tab)
- Chemical anchors. Good near edges. For hollow brick, check the maker's sheet for the right sleeve.
- Where to drill, from Ramset: anchors "should be in the centre of the block or brick", and in hollow units "in the solid section of the unit". Also "One anchor per brick". Ramset resource book (PDF, large) (opens in a new tab)
Watch out
- Fixing into the mortar joint for a heavy load. Mortar is softer. Fine for light things only.
- A big sleeve anchor near a brick end or corner. It cracks the brick.
- Hammer on in hollow brick. It breaks out the inside, so the plug has nothing to grip.
- Guessing how strong the brick is. Ramset says brick strength "varies from manufacturer to manufacturer". Ramset (PDF) (opens in a new tab)
Maker load tables and data
- Ramset anchoring resource book (brick and block section; large file) (opens in a new tab)
- Ramset RamPlug data sheet (opens in a new tab)
- Ramset AnkaScrew: brick and block (opens in a new tab)
- Ramset anchor selection chart (opens in a new tab)
- fischer DuoPower load table (opens in a new tab)
- Hilti Fastening Technology Manual (opens in a new tab)
We don't give load figures. Fixings are rated by their maker, for one product, size and wall. Always use the maker's current sheet.
Wall 5 of 6
Hebel (AAC) wall
Hebel is CSR's brand of AAC (autoclaved aerated concrete). It's light and soft, and full of tiny air bubbles. It comes as panels and blocks. In many houses Hebel is only the outside skin, with a stud wall inside.
Hammer OFFRotary only. Use the hole size in CSR's guide. Some screws need no pre-drilling.
How to spot it
- Fine white or light-grey powder. The bit goes in very easily, like chalk.
- Where it's cut, it looks like very light concrete with tiny bubbles.
- Often rendered on the outside.
Fixings that suit
- Use CSR's Hebel fixing guide. Pick a fixing it lists for your exact Hebel product, with its hole size and depth. CSR Hebel Fixing Guide (PDF) (opens in a new tab)
- Plugs made for aerated concrete, like fischer GB, or long plugs like fischer DuoPower. fischer GB (opens in a new tab) fischer DuoPower (opens in a new tab)
- CSR: "It's important to seek advice on your individual home from your builder or designer before drilling holes or securing any loads onto Hebel walls." CSR (PDF) (opens in a new tab)
Watch out
- Hammer drilling. It makes a big, crumbly hole and the plug spins. fischer: "Use rotary drilling to create the drill hole". fischer GB (opens in a new tab)
- Short brick plugs. AAC needs long plugs, or anchors made for AAC.
- Fixing too close to an edge or opening. CSR: "Fixing to be minimum 100mm from edge of panel, including door and window openings, expressed control joints and from the end of the wall". CSR Hebel Fixing Guide (PDF) (opens in a new tab)
- Over-tightening. CSR: "Do not over tighten fixings". CSR (PDF) (opens in a new tab)
Maker load tables and data
- CSR: Fixing to Hebel (opens in a new tab)
- CSR Hebel Fixing Guide (opens in a new tab)
- fischer DuoPower load table (aerated concrete rows) (opens in a new tab)
We don't give load figures. Fixings are rated by their maker, for one product, size and wall. Always use the maker's current sheet.
Wall 6 of 6
Concrete wall
Poured or precast concrete walls, columns and core walls. Common in apartments and commercial buildings. Concrete block walls can be hollow, or filled with concrete.
Hammer ONSDS rotary hammer and a carbide masonry bit, the exact size on the maker's sheet. Drill to the depth on the sheet.
Ask the engineer. Apartment or commercial slab or ceiling? It may have post-tensioned steel cables inside. Don't drill until the builder or engineer says where it's safe.
How to spot it
- Very hard, grey dust. Slow, even with hammer on.
- The bit may hit steel (reo). Stop and move the hole.
- Precast panels often show joints or lifting points.
Fixings that suit
- Concrete screws (screw-in anchors), like Ramset AnkaScrew or Hilti HUS4-H. Ramset: "Does not expand and burst concrete". Ramset AnkaScrew (PDF) (opens in a new tab) Hilti HUS4-H (opens in a new tab)
- Sleeve and stud anchors, like Ramset DynaBolt Plus or TruBolt. Keep them away from edges. Ramset Mechanical Anchoring (PDF) (opens in a new tab)
- Chemical anchors: for heavy loads, near edges, or where the engineer says. Ramset selection chart (PDF) (opens in a new tab)
- Nylon plugs, for light items.
Watch out
- Not cleaning the hole. Ramset: "Clean thoroughly with brush. Remove debris by way of vacuum or hand pump". Ramset AnkaScrew (PDF) (opens in a new tab)
- Wrong bit size. An oversize hole means the anchor won't grip.
- Using one brand's figures for another. Ramset: "Performance and design information from one supplier does not apply to anchors from other suppliers, even if they appear to be the same or have the same generic description." Ramset (PDF) (opens in a new tab)
- Structural or safety-critical load? Ramset's tables are for "qualified structural engineers or other suitably skilled persons". Get the engineer's spec. Ramset (PDF) (opens in a new tab)
Maker load tables and data
- Ramset AnkaScrew data sheet (opens in a new tab)
- Ramset Mechanical Anchoring (DynaBolt, TruBolt) (opens in a new tab)
- Ramset anchor selection chart (opens in a new tab)
- Ramset data sheets hub (opens in a new tab)
- Hilti HUS4-H screw anchor (opens in a new tab)
- Hilti Fastening Technology Manual (opens in a new tab)
- fischer technical download centre (opens in a new tab)
We don't give load figures. Fixings are rated by their maker, for one product, size and wall. Always use the maker's current sheet.
// 03 Not sure?
Not sure what your wall is?
Never guess. One test can trick you, so use two or three.
- 1Ask and lookCheck the plans, or ask the builder or supervisor. Brick outside doesn't mean brick inside.
- 2KnockTap along the wall. Hollow or solid?
- 3Stud finderFind the studs. Use the live-wire mode to look for cables too.
- 4MagnetIt sticks to the screw heads in plasterboard. A row of screws up the wall shows a stud.
- 5Small test holeScan first. Drill where it will be hidden, hammer off to start. Watch the dust.
Try it: what did you find?
1Knock on the wall. What do you hear?
2Now a small test hole (scan first, hammer off). What comes out? (if it sounded hollow)
Probably: Plasterboard, no stud behind. Check with a second test.
Show me this wallProbably: Timber stud wall. Check with a second test.
Show me this wallProbably: Steel stud wall. Check with a second test.
Show me this wallPlasterboard stuck onto masonry. Fix into the masonry, not the board. Drill on and check the dust to see which masonry.
2Now a small test hole (scan first, hammer off). What comes out? (if it sounded solid)
Probably: Brick wall. Check with a second test.
Show me this wallProbably: Hebel (AAC) wall. Check with a second test.
Show me this wallProbably: Concrete wall. Check with a second test.
Show me this wallProbably: Timber stud wall. You're on a stud. Check along the wall: you should find hollow spots between the studs.
Show me this wall
Bit hits steel in concrete or masonry? Stop. It could be reo, a pipe or a conduit. Move the hole and scan again.
// 04 Words
Words you'll hear on site.
Tap a word to see what it means.
Stud
An upright piece of timber or steel inside a framed wall. The plasterboard is screwed to the studs.
Noggin or nogging
A short piece fixed across, between two studs. Both words mean the same thing. Extra noggings go where you'll hang something heavy.
Plasterboard ("Gyprock")
Sheets of gypsum plaster with paper on both faces, used to line walls. Gyprock is a CSR brand name, but people use it for any plasterboard.
Hebel (AAC)
A CSR brand of autoclaved aerated concrete: a light, white-grey "concrete" full of tiny air bubbles.
Brick veneer
A timber or steel frame inside, with one layer (skin) of brick outside and a gap between. Inside, you fix to a stud wall.
Double brick
Two layers of brick with a gap between. Inside walls are brick, usually covered with render or plaster.
Masonry
Brick, block, stone or concrete.
Anchor, plug or wall plug
Something that goes into a hole in the wall so a screw or bolt can grip.
"Dynabolt"
Site slang for a sleeve anchor. DynaBolt is a Ramset brand name.
Chemical anchor
A resin (glue) injected into the hole. Then a threaded rod is pushed in. ChemSet is a Ramset brand name.
Cavity anchor or toggle
A fixing that opens up behind the plasterboard, in the hollow (cavity).
Tek screw
Slang for a self-drilling metal screw. It drills its own hole in steel. The name comes from a brand.
Hammer mode
A drill setting that hammers as it spins. It breaks up hard masonry. It also smashes soft walls, so switch it off for timber, steel, plasterboard and Hebel.
SDS drill
A heavy hammer drill (rotary hammer) with a special bit shank. Used for concrete.
Masonry bit
A drill bit with a hard carbide tip, for brick, block and concrete.
Reo
Short for reinforcing steel: the steel bars inside concrete.
Hanging rail
A metal rail screwed to the wall. Wall cabinets hook onto it, then you adjust them level.
Load table
The maker's chart of what a fixing can hold, for one product, size and wall. Always use the current one.
// 05 Wall cabinets
Hanging wall cabinets.
Never hang wall cabinets on plasterboard alone. Wall cabinets get heavy once they're full of plates. If one falls it can hurt someone badly. Fix into studs, noggings, or masonry with an anchor rated for the load. Unsure? Ask your supervisor before you lift it up.
0 of 8 ready
Ready to hang. Still unsure about the wall or the load? Ask before you lift.
Plan noggings before the plasterboard goes on
- Put them in at frame stage, before sheeting. Adding them later means cutting and patching the wall.
- Put them where wall cabinets, rails, rangehoods, heavy shelves, TVs, grab rails and towel rails will go. CSR: "Provide suitable noggings to support the bath and other fixtures such as soap holders, hand rails and towel rails." CSR Gyprock Red Book 2 (PDF) (opens in a new tab)
- Steel frame? Use timber or plywood noggings, fixed the way the frame maker shows. No CCA-treated timber. Rondo Noggings Manual (PDF) (opens in a new tab)
- Give the builder a nogging layout from your cabinet drawings early. Before the wall is sheeted, take photos of the frame with a tape measure in shot.
- Commercial or engineered walls: get the nogging detail from the wall system maker or the engineer.
The bracket rating is not the wall rating
- Hardware makers rate their brackets, not your wall or your fixing. Hettich says: "The quality and condition of wall materials are also beyond our control". Hettich (PDF) (opens in a new tab)
- Hettich's supplied wall plugs are only for "solid brick, solid sand lime brick, concrete or engineering brick". Other walls need the right fixing. Hettich (PDF) (opens in a new tab)
- The weakest part sets the real limit: the screw, the anchor, the stud or the board. Blum wall hanging bracket (opens in a new tab)
The Australian Standard
- AS 4386 is the Australian Standard for cabinetry, and it covers installing wall cabinets. It's a paid document, so we don't quote it here. Ask your shop for its copy. Standards Australia: AS 4386 (opens in a new tab)
- Rangehood and cooktop gaps: check the current standard, the appliance instructions and the gasfitter. We don't give numbers here.
// 06 Common mistakes
Common mistakes, and the fix.
Tap a mistake. Then tap "Show the fix".
Missed the stud
- What you see
- The screw spins, or the item feels loose.
- Why
- The screw only grips plasterboard, and plasterboard holds almost nothing.
- Fix
- Find both edges of the stud. Fix in the middle.
- Next time
- Mark the stud edges before you drill. Use a stud finder and a test hole.
Cabinet on board anchors
- What you see
- The cabinet leans out at the top, or the board cracks around the fixings.
- Why
- Plasterboard alone can't take a full wall cabinet. The fixings pull out.
- Fix
- Take the weight off now. Re-fix into studs or noggings, or add a nogging.
- Next time
- Plan noggings before sheeting.
Hammer on in a soft wall
- What you see
- The hole is big and crumbly. The plug spins.
- Why
- Hammer mode smashes soft walls like Hebel and hollow brick.
- Fix
- Move the hole. Drill with hammer off, at the size on the maker's sheet.
- Next time
- Hammer off for timber, steel, plasterboard and Hebel.
Anchor too near an edge
- What you see
- A crack runs from the anchor to the edge of the brick or slab.
- Why
- Sleeve anchors push outwards as they set.
- Fix
- Move to the middle of the brick, or use an anchor the maker says suits edges, like a chemical anchor.
- Next time
- Check the edge distance in the maker's table before you drill.
Dust left in the hole
- What you see
- The anchor won't go in all the way, or it pulls out.
- Why
- Dust fills the hole and stops the anchor gripping.
- Fix
- Brush and blow out the hole (vacuum or pump), then fit the anchor.
- Next time
- Clean every hole, the way the maker's sheet says.
// 07 Quick check
Quick check.
Five quick questions. Tap an answer.
Question 1 of 5 · Score 0
1/5 Test hole: white dust, then the bit drops into nothing. What's behind?
Answer: Plasterboard, no stud. The bit went through the board into the empty cavity. Light items only here.
2/5 Hammer on or off for Hebel?
Answer: Hammer off (rotary only). Hammer mode makes a big, crumbly hole in Hebel, so the plug spins.
3/5 Can you hang a wall cabinet on plasterboard anchors alone?
Answer: No. Studs, noggings or masonry. Never on plasterboard alone. And Ramset says adding anchors does not raise the maximum load.
4/5 When do noggings for wall cabinets go in?
Answer: Before the plasterboard goes on. Plan them at frame stage. Adding them later means cutting the wall.
5/5 Red dust, hard going. What's the wall?
Answer: Brick. Clay brick usually gives red or orange dust. Check with a second test.
You got 0 of 5.
// 08 Sources
Where this comes from.
Maker sheets and official pages we used. Always check the current version.
Show all 31 sources
Safety
Plasterboard and frames
Fixings and anchors
- Ramset WallMate (opens in a new tab)
- Ramset RamPlug (opens in a new tab)
- Ramset AnkaScrew (opens in a new tab)
- Ramset AnkaScrew: brick and block (opens in a new tab)
- Ramset Mechanical Anchoring (opens in a new tab)
- Ramset anchoring resource book (opens in a new tab)
- Ramset anchor selection chart (opens in a new tab)
- Ramset data sheets hub (opens in a new tab)
- Hilti HHD-S (opens in a new tab)
- Hilti HUS4-H (opens in a new tab)
- Hilti Fastening Technology Manual (opens in a new tab)
- Hilti technical literature (opens in a new tab)
- Rawlplug SM Interset (opens in a new tab)
- fischer DuoTec load table (opens in a new tab)
- fischer DuoPower load table (opens in a new tab)
- fischer DuoPower (opens in a new tab)
- fischer GB (aircrete) (opens in a new tab)
- fischer technical download centre (opens in a new tab)
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