Learn / Laminating
Laminating: stick it flat, first go
Lots of people find laminating hard. Here it is step by step, with pictures. Tap a step to see it.
Medium10 steps5 common mistakesQuick check
What laminating meansTools and gearStep by stepCommon mistakesQuick checkCheck before you stick
Check before you stick. This is general know-how, not a rule book. Every shop and product is different. Always check with your supervisor and the maker's instructions.
// 01 What laminating means
Three jobs called "laminating".
Laminate on board
Laminating means gluing a thin decorative sheet onto a board. The sheet is often HPL (high-pressure laminate). The board (the substrate) is often particleboard or MDF. In many shops, you stick it with contact adhesive.
- Where you see it
- Benchtops, desks, shelves, doors and wall panels.
- Barry's tip
- Laminate is hard on top but brittle. Handle big sheets with care so they don't crack.
Edge banding
A thin strip glued onto the raw edge of a board. It's related to laminating. Edgebander machines often use hot-melt glue. You can also do edges by hand with laminate strips and contact adhesive.
- Where you see it
- Almost every cabinet edge you can see.
- Barry's tip
- Edge banding will get its own Learn topic soon.
Bent laminating
A different job. Thin strips of timber or veneer are glued in layers and clamped over a curved form (a mould). When the glue sets, the layers keep the curve.
- Where you see it
- Curved rails, chair parts and some curved panels.
- Barry's tip
- Not covered on this page. Ask your supervisor or an experienced joiner before you try it.
This page is about the first one: laminate on board.
// 02 Words you will hear
Laminating words, in simple English.
Tap a word to see what it means.
HPL
High-pressure laminate. A thin, hard decorative sheet.
Substrate
The board under the laminate, like particleboard or MDF.
Contact adhesive
A glue you put on both faces. You let it dry until it's not sticky to a light touch. When the faces touch, they grab straight away.
Touch-dry
Dry enough that the glue does not stick to a light touch.
Open time
How long the glue stays ready to stick after it's touch-dry. Check the adhesive maker's data sheet.
J-roller
A hand roller for pressing laminate down hard.
Flush trim bit
A router bit with a bearing. It trims the laminate level with the board edge.
Balancing sheet
A sheet on the back face (also called a backer). It helps stop the panel bending.
SDS
Safety Data Sheet. It tells you a product's dangers and how to use it safely.
// 03 Tools and gear
What you need. Tap a card to flip it.
// 04 Step by step
Laminating in 10 steps.
Tap a step, or play them all. Each step has a "check" note.
Step 1 of 10
Step 1 of 10
Prep and clean the board
Make sure the board (the substrate) is flat, clean and dry. Scrape or sand off bumps and old glue. Then vacuum or wipe off all the dust.
Check before you stick: Dust or a bump under the laminate can show through or make a bubble.
Step 2 of 10
Cut the laminate oversize
Cut the sheet a little bigger than the board on every side. You trim it flush (level with the edge) later.
Check before you stick: Check the pattern direction and the good face before you cut. Ask your supervisor how much overhang your shop leaves.
Step 3 of 10
Glue both faces
Put an even coat of contact adhesive on the board and on the back of the laminate. Cover right to the edges.
Check before you stick: Use the spread and number of coats the maker says. Check the adhesive maker's data sheet.
Fumes: open doors and use extraction. No flames or sparks.
Step 4 of 10
Wait until touch-dry
Let both faces dry until the glue does not stick to a light touch with a clean knuckle. It should feel tacky, not wet.
Check before you stick: Drying time changes with the weather. Check the adhesive maker's data sheet for drying time and open time (how long you have to stick it).
Step 5 of 10
Lay spacer sticks
Lay dowels or thin sticks across the board, close together. Contact adhesive grabs on first touch. The sticks stop it sticking before it's lined up.
Check before you stick: Use clean, dry sticks with no glue on them.
Step 6 of 10
Position the sheet
Lay the laminate on the sticks, good face up. Line it up so it hangs over on every side.
Check before you stick: Once it touches the glue, it won't move. Line it up before you go on.
Step 7 of 10
Remove sticks, middle out
Pull out the middle stick and press the laminate down there. Then work out to each end, one stick at a time.
Check before you stick: Working from the middle pushes the air out to the edges.
Step 8 of 10
Roll it hard
Roll the whole sheet with a J-roller and firm pressure. Start in the middle and roll out to the edges. Go over the edges too.
Check before you stick: Spots you don't press hard can lift later.
Step 9 of 10
Trim flush
Use a router with a flush trim bit. The bearing runs on the board edge. The bit cuts the laminate level with the edge.
Check before you stick: Check the bearing is clean and spins freely. A stuck bearing can burn or chip the edge.
Wear eye and hearing protection. Keep your hands clear of the bit.
Step 10 of 10
File and bevel the edges
File the sharp edge with light strokes towards the board. Make a small bevel (an angled edge) so it's smooth to touch.
Check before you stick: Don't file away from the board. That can lift or chip the edge.
// 05 Common mistakes
What went wrong, and how to fix it.
Tap a problem. Then tap "Show the fix".
Bubbles
- What you see
- A soft spot or bump that moves when you press it.
- Why
- Air got trapped, or that spot wasn't rolled hard enough. Dust or a lump of glue can cause it too.
- Fix
- Roll it again, hard, from the middle out. Some contact adhesives can be warmed and rolled again. Check the adhesive maker's data sheet first. Never use heat near wet glue or fumes.
- Next time
- Take sticks out from the middle, and roll everywhere.
Glue not dry
- What you see
- Edges lift, the sheet slides, or bubbles show up later.
- Why
- The glue was still wet when the faces met. The solvent got trapped.
- Fix
- If it hasn't grabbed yet, lift it off and wait longer. If it's stuck and failing, ask your supervisor. It may need to come off.
- Next time
- Do the touch test on both faces. Check the adhesive maker's data sheet for drying time.
Cracked corners
- What you see
- A crack that starts at an inside corner of a cut-out (like a sink hole), or at a corner that got knocked.
- Why
- Sharp inside corners collect stress, and laminate is brittle.
- Fix
- A cracked sheet usually needs to be replaced. Ask your supervisor.
- Next time
- Round the inside corners of cut-outs. Don't cut sharp square corners. Handle sheets with care.
Bad edges
- What you see
- Chips, burn marks or a sharp edge.
- Why
- A blunt bit, a dirty or stuck bearing, or filing the wrong way.
- Fix
- Clean it up with a file, using light strokes towards the board. If it's bad, ask your supervisor about re-doing the edge.
- Next time
- Sharp bit, clean bearing, steady feed. File towards the board.
Panel bends
- What you see
- The panel bends (bows) days or weeks later.
- Why
- Laminate is on one face only. The two faces move differently with moisture, so the panel pulls one way.
- Fix
- Hard to fix once it's bent. Talk to your supervisor.
- Next time
- Put a balancing sheet on the back face, mostly on loose panels like doors. Panels fixed down to a frame may not need one. Ask your shop.
// 06 Quick check
Spot the mistake.
Tap the picture that shows a mistake.
Question 1 of 4 · Score 0
1/4 Before the sheet goes down
Answer: Sheet straight onto the glue. Contact adhesive grabs on first touch. Without sticks you can't line the sheet up.
2/4 Rolling
Answer: Rolling from one edge only. Rolling from one edge can trap air on the far side. Start in the middle.
3/4 The back of a door
Answer: Laminate on one face only. With laminate on one face only, the panel can bend over time.
4/4 A sink cut-out
Answer: Sharp square inside corner. Sharp inside corners can crack. Round them.
You got 0 of 4.
// 07 Before you stick
Ready to stick? Tick them off.
0 of 7 ready
Ready to stick. Good luck. Take your time!
// 08 Check before you stick
Safety
- Fresh airMany contact adhesives give off solvent fumes. Work with good airflow or extraction.
- No flames or sparksMany contact adhesives are flammable. No smoking, heaters or open flames nearby. Check the label.
- Safety gearEye protection and gloves. Use the breathing protection the SDS says.
- Read the SDSThe Safety Data Sheet tells you the dangers and how to work safely. Get it from your supplier or the maker.
- RouterEye and hearing protection, dust extraction, and hands clear of the bit.
- Glue ragsAsk your supervisor where used glue rags and tins go. Follow the SDS.
General safety notes, not a full list. Follow your site rules, the product's SDS and your supervisor.
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